There’s no menu. No sign. Just a tray of bubbling lasagna, a few pours of Italian wine, and a warm reminder of what restaurants used to be. There’s no sign outside, just a discreet door with the ...

There’s no sign outside, just a discreet door with the numbers 3190 stenciled across the glass of a restaurant tucked around the corner from Cotoletta, the buzzy Italian spot also built on only one ...